Land of eternal summer...the tiny paradise of Nevis

Ancient tree greets visitors at Montpelier a former sugar plantation now a resort on Nevis  (Taylor)

NEVIS, November 21, 2015 – On most days, the biggest event on the tiny island of Nevis is the sunrise. After that time moves slowly with it perpetual rhythm that will not be rushed.

In the world of travel, the tiny island of Nevis is a perfect synonym for serenity.

Nevis Peak surrounded by clouds  (neviscycleclub.com)

Nobody really knows how Nevis got its name which is derived from the Spanish Nuestra Senora de las Nieves meaning “Our Lady of the Snows.” The reference comes from a rare snowfall on the Esquiline Hill in 4^th century Rome. Many believe the theory is based upon the clouds that usually surround the summit of Nevis Peak which apparently reminded someone of the miracle snow in Italy centuries ago.

Nevis’ is also known as the “Queen of the Caribees” thanks to its once thriving sugar industry in the 18^th century. Today tourism has replaced sugar as the primary source of revenue, but the island has wisely incorporated its past to sweeten the transition.

Big sister St Kitts is just two miles away  (Taylor)

Situated a little more than 200 miles east-southeast of Puerto Rico, Nevis and her larger sister St Kitts, gained their independence from the United Kingdom in 1983. They are separated by a shallow two mile channel known as “The Narrows.”

Most visitors arrive in Nevis by water taxis which take approximately 10 minutes from St. Kitts, but the island does have an airport as well which can accommodate small planes.

For a tiny place, Nevis has a rich history which it ingeniously utilizes to promote modern day tourism. When Pierre Le Moyne d’Iberville, the French Canadian founder of Louisiana decided to drive the English out of Nevis in 1706, many plantation owners burned their property rather than allowing the French to take control.

Ruins of a sugar plantation at Nisbet Plantation hearken to the days of Nevis' past  (Taylor)

Ironically, it was primarily the African plantation slaves who took up arms to defend their families against the French invaders.

The famed Avenue of the Palms at Nisbet Plantation is the gateway to the beach  (Taylor)

Two important consequences resulted from the attack; the sugar industry ultimately collapsed and small plots of land on the plantations were offered to the previously enslaved families. Today, Nevis has a population of roughly 12,000 inhabitants who are largely of African decent.

When slavery was abolished in 1834, the first Monday in August was set aside as Emancipation Day as part of the island’s annual Nevis Culturama Festival.

Sugar mills have been converted into restaurants and even honeymoon suites  (Taylor)

But given its laid back personality, there are other historical aspects to Nevis which are fascinating.  British naval hero Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson was married to the 22-year old daughter of a plantation owner on Nevis in 1787. The Duchess of Bronte, Frances (Fanny) Nisbet lived at Nisbet Plantation which is today one of four sugar plantations that have been renovated into upscale resorts.

The first United States secretary of the treasury, Alexander Hamilton, was born on Nevis and spent the first years of his life there.

The signature garden at Golden Rock  (Taylor)

Also from Nevis was Rupert Crosse, the first African American to be nominated for an Academy Award for Best Supporting Actor. Another well known Nevisian actress, Cicely Tyson, won multiple Emmys and was nominated for an Oscar in 1972.

Even lesser known, but no less important, is the story of Captain John Smith who visited Nevis while sailing to Virginia in 1607. It was during this voyage that the first permanent English settlement of Jamestown was founded in the New World.

Yet, with such a rich history, time still passes slowly on the island of Nevis and the residents wouldn’t have it any other way.

The Bath Hotel & Spa was the first hotel in the Caribbean dating to 1778  (Taylor)

Electricity wasn’t introduced until 1954, but it was not available throughout the island until 1971. Despite that, Nevis was home to the first hotel in the Caribbean, the luxurious Bath Hotel and Spa built by John Huggins in 1778. Huggins created his property to take advantage of the small but soothing medicinal waters of the nearby hot spring that is fed by the thermal activity of Nevis Peak.

Thermal baths fed by Nevis Peak  (Teylor)

Though the hotel is now used as an office building, the hot springs remain active for visitors to enjoy “taking the waters.”

Four of the former sugar plantations have been converted into resort hotel properties, each with its own charm and character. The deluxe Four Seasons Hotel is the only chain hotel on Nevis as well as the only Four Seasons hotel in the Caribbean.

As would be expected, life centers around the water. Pinney’s Beach, on the western coast, is the most developed beach on the island.

Four Seasons Nevis is the only Four Seasons property in the Caribbean  (Taylor)

Though tourism thrives, the island is too small to accommodate large cruise ships, and with 400 hotel rooms, half of which belong to the Four Seasons, Nevis’ goal is not to add more hotels but to fill the rooms they already have.

Typical cottage situated along the Avenue of the Palms at Nisbet Plantation Resort  (Taylor)

Nevis is an island of eternal summer, “where the livin’ is easy.”

Nevis is a place where a chorus of tiny invisible tree frogs will serenade you to sleep. A place where soft breezes caress the palm trees to sound like a gentle rain. A place where time somehow gets lost within its own timelessness.

Originally published in  Communities Digital News

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Nevis Triathlon: Swimming, cycling and running in the sun

The tiny island of Nevis is home to one of the most beautiful triathlons in the world  (neviscycleclub.com

CHARLESTOWN, NEVIS, November 20, 2015  – Take one tiny island in the Caribbean and add athletes from more than a dozen countries who swim, bike and run through paradise. Simmer for four and a half hours in the West Indies sunshine of Nevis and you have the recipe for a world class triathlon.

Sunrise swim to begin the event  (Taylor)

Judging from the reactions of the competitors in this year’s Nevis Triathlon, the miniature gumdrop shaped island just may be home to the most beautiful triathlon venue in the world.

In 2015, the Nevis Triathlon earned itself an international reputation for anyone who dares take up the challenge. Competitors came from around the world: the United States, the UK, Canada, Australia, Germany, China and South Africa as well as relatively local athletes from Trinidad/Tobago and Belize.

The youngest competitor at just 6 years of age traveled with his family all the way from Romania to participate. And the oldest, Dr. Gordon Avery at age 81, has participated in all 14 of the Nevis Triathlons. As a beloved island resident, Avery was clearly the crowd favorite.

Next stop a 20 mile bicycle ride around the perimeter of the island  (Taylor)

Festivities began precisely at 7 am with three scheduled events. The shortest, known as the “Try-a-Tri,” is geared for first timers, smaller children and people who might not be sure they want to test their skills in three events on a hot Saturday morning in November.

Crowd favorite Dr. Gordon Avery, 81 of Nevis, competed  in his 14th triathlon on Nevis  (Taylor)

The Try-a-Tri includes a 100 meter swim, a 10K bike ride and a 2.5K run.

The youngest challenger from Romania was six  (Taylor)

For triathlon veterans the Nevis37 involves a 500 meter swim, followed by one lap around the circumference of the island on a bicycle, a distance of 20 miles, and a 5K run.

The ultimate challenge is Nevis73 which doubles the distances of the sprint.

Ordinarily Nevis is a quiet place with its distinctive humpbacked mountain landmark Mount Nevis situated roughly in the center of the island. On triathlon day however, the main harbor in Charlestown swells with loud music and raucous competitors and spectators.

Nevis is filled with history. British naval hero Admiral Lord Nelson was married to Fanny Nisbet, the daughter of a sugar plantation owner in the late 18^th century.  Today, Nisbet Plantation is a favorite island resort with its yellow cottages and its famed Avenue of the Palms that leads to the beach.

Remnants of the past -- ruin at Nisbet Resort from its days as a sugar plantation  (Taylor)

Alexander Hamilton was born on Nevis in either 1755 or 1757. The actual year is uncertain. Hamilton was Father of the United States Coast Guard, founder of The New York Post and the first United States Secretary of the Treasury. For this reason, his portrait graces our modern day ten dollar bill.

What better place to run?  (Taylor)

But in mid-November, the eyes -- and arms and legs -- of the world turn toward Nevis where the triathlon is quickly gaining a global reputation.

If there is one place on the course that makes competitors groan it’s the dreaded Anaconda Hill. Though not especially steep, Anaconda’s length never seems to stop. It just keeps going…and going…and going. As cyclists reach the first water station, believing they have reached Anaconda’s summit, they realize they are only 75% finished which brings groans of despair as they grudgingly peddle onward and upward.

Nevis73 riders are particularly challenged because they know they must battle Anaconda a second time around the island.

Montpelier  is another renovated sugar plantation that new welcomes guests on Nevis  (Taylor)

The run goes from the start/finish line in Charlestown out to the Four Seasons Hotel, the only chain hotel on Nevis. Runners must go out and back at least once, but Nevis73 competitors have the joy of doing it twice.

Kevin Mackinnon (center) of Canada won the men's  Nevis37 with a time of 1:37  (Taylor)

During the course of their bike ride, cyclists sometimes encounter donkeys, goats or even an occasional monkey. In fact, there are more monkeys on Nevis than people. Fortunately they are shy and don’t bother humans, but they are still a nuisance.

Three sided trophies sculpted from native stone  (Taylor)

Trophies are awarded for the top three places in each category for men and for women. This year’s sculptures, carved from local stone by an artisan from Nevis, featured three sides representing each of the skills involved.

As the event wears on, temperatures rise and the competition becomes more intense thanks to the heat. When asked how hot it was out there, one woman replied, “I think it was a million degrees.”

To her credit she finished, as did everyone else, and the temps did not quite reach a million.

Why not barrel your way around Nevis  (Taylor)

The overall winner was Jason Costello of Trinidad who, oddly enough, was the only male participant in the Nevis73 race.

It was a congenial atmosphere nestled within the island beauty of Nevis, just across the channel from big sister, St. Kitts. If there were any complaints, some participants wished there had been time to learn more about the course before heading out into the sun.

Certainly the hills and terrain of Nevis provided the ultimate challenge, and with that came stunning island views and an accomplishment that even the most diehard triathlete will long remember.

After a long morning triathlon, the Avenue of the Palms at Nisbet Plantation is the gateway to serenity  (Taylor)

Just as the slogan says, “Nevis….Naturally.”

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The Glacier Express: Panoramas in motion

The Glacier Express crosses the breathtaking Landwasser Viaduct   (wikipedia)

SWITZERLAND, November 7, 2015 – They say the Glacier Express the slowest express train in the world. 

At seven-and-a-half hours from beginning to end, it’s also the longest rail journey in Switzerland. 

The Matterhorn is one of the highlights of the Glacier Express rail experience  (wikipedia)

Today, after more than eight decades of service, the Glacier Express is not only the best known train trip in Switzerland, it is also the most popular.

Olberalp Pass is the highest point of the trip (wikipedia)

It began in June of 1930 when three rail companies combined routes to operate trains between Zermatt and St. Moritz.  At that time, there were three classes of service in converted passenger cars that had been redesigned into salon-style coaches.

Until 1982, the Glacier Express was only a summertime route because of the hazards of traveling through the Furka Pass in winter.  With the opening of a tunnel between Oberwald and Realp, a project which took nine years to complete, the train was finally able to provide year round travel.

The route, which links Zermatt and the Matterhorn with Chur and then Davos or St. Moritz,  is a narrow gauge railway featuring 291 bridges and 91 tunnels.  Several places along the line incorporate rack rails which allow the train to ascend and descend uncommonly steep grades in the track with comparatively minimal reductions in  speed. The company even gives passengers a souvenir wine glass with a tilted base to emphasize the steepness of some of the places along the line.

A tunnel through the Oberalp Pass made the Glacier Express a year-round excursion  (wikipedia)

The Glacier Express has always maintained a high level of service with constant upgrades that reflect advances in technology and improvements in rolling stock equipment.  All of which translates to magnificent panoramic coaches plus an elegant three-course meal which are standard components of every Glacier Express itinerary.

Through the clouds near St Moritz  (wikipedia)

The highest point of the journey is the Oberalp Pass which reaches an altitude of nearly 6,700 feet.  From towering Alpine walls of rock, to spectacular countryside with rushing mountain streams and infinite valleys, the Glacier Express is a visual feast that creates a lifetime of memories.

The Landwasser Viaduct is a highlight and a masterpiece of architectural design.  Six-arches rest on five pillars that tower 213 feet to span the Landwasser River. The viaduct is a signature structure of the Rhaetian Railway, which still owns and operates it.

The 446-foot curved track disappears into or spills out of the 709-foot Landwasser Tunnel to the delight of everyone aboard.  Thanks to the circular path of the track, passengers get a clear view of this stunning structural achievement of the combination viaduct/tunnel with its mind-boggling vistas below.

Switzerland has its own version of the Grand Canyon  (wikipedia)

Along the Glacier Express route, the train regularly tunnels through passes and passes through tunnels.  

Another popular sight comes in the canton of Graubunden where the Rhine Canyon, better known as the “Swiss Grand Canyon,” is a remote haven for wildlife due to the  difficulty of access.  In fact, the rail line is the only way to access this forested region with its steep cliffs and roaring streams.

Chur is another popular starting place  (wikipedia)

The route is equally spectacular in either direction, however the most preferable choice might be from St. Moritz or Davos through Chur to Zermatt.  The reason being that Zermatt, though somewhat touristy with its pedestrian-only streets, looks more like the Switzerland that most travelers come to see.  Add the beauty of the Matterhorn and it’s a pleasant way to end the journey.

Going in the other direction, Chur has a lovely old town that is well worth exploring.  It is also the gateway to another lovely hour-long train trip which goes high into the Alps to the ski resort of Arosa.

Picturesque St Moritz sits above three lakes  (wikipedia)

St. Moritz has been a playground for the rich and famous for decades, and it lies in a beautiful setting with three lakes that dot the route into the village. 

Tilting wine glass is a popular souvenir  (wikipedia)

Finally, here’s a tip:  The Glacier Express route consists of several different rail lines.  If the fee for the Glacier Express itself  is too steep, you can still do the same route with your Swiss Rail Pass for no additional charge, although you will have to stop and change trains along the way.  And, of course, you will not have the advantage of the panoramic cars, the earphone explanations or the meal. For travelers on a budget however, it’s a great way to savor the experience without the additional cost. 

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In St. Barts, it takes LeVillage to feel at home

View of St Barts from the swimming pool at LeVillage  (LeVillage)

ST. BARTS, WEST INDIES, November 6, 2015 – Christopher Columbus discovered St. Barts on his second voyage in 1493. Andre Charneau rediscovered it in 1968. Old Chris may be better known to most people, but it was the pioneering vision of Charneau, and  others like him, that uncovered the true spirit of the tiny West Indian paradise.

LeVillage co-owner Catherine Charneau

In the five centuries between Columbus and the mid-20th century, Sweden controlled the island between 1784 and 1878, and that influence remains an integral part of the island’s character even though today it is French. So much so, in fact, that it is often called the “St Tropez of the Caribbean.” 

Since Columbus, other celebrities have followed. David Rockefeller purchased two plots in 1957. Soon after the Rothschilds arrived and built an estate in a coconut grove.

The 70s brought Mikhail Baryshnikov and Jimmy Buffet and the stars having been aligning there ever since to establish St. Barts’ as a glitzy jet-setters hideaway for the past half century.

But there is another side to St Barts. The one that Catherine Charneau understands and passionately advocates to every visitor she encounters. Catherine is co-owner of LeVillage St Jean Hotel along with her three brothers. Together, they have embraced the vision of their father Andre, and captured his entrepreneurial spirit that is the essence of the island.

Gustavia Harbor is the port for St. Barts  (Taylor)

LeVillage St Jean is a metaphor for the island. Everything is there, visible to the naked eye, but to appreciate it you must peel away the layers. Celebrities come and celebrities go, but St Barts and the “idea” of LeVillage are eternal.

St Barts is glitzy but there are "hidden" assets  (Taylor)

Perhaps part of the attraction is that you have to make a little effort to visit St Barts. You must work a bit for what you get in return, but if you do, the island will reward you.

LeVillage is much the same, as are the industrious islanders who have labored to create their image and now work even harder to preserve it.

Andre Charneau was a native of Guadeloupe who came to St Barts in the late 1960s when major corporations began to infringe upon his banana business. After searching several places in the Caribbean, he settled in St Barts on a hillside overlooking St Jean Beach.

St Jean Beach is arguably the most popular beach on the island  (Taylor)

Charneau wisely chose his location to avoid the seaside which was more exposed to hurricanes. At the time, the road was little more than a pathway. Visitors were rare and the airport, which today is an attraction in its own right, had only one flight a day…if that.

Exercise room and pool at LeVillage  (LeVillage)

Virtually everything had to be imported, including water. Ironically, even today, clean water is a precious commodity valued at about ten times the cost of other places where it is abundant. As such, the Charneau’s, and other native islanders, are dedicated environmentalists, knowing all too well the value of nature and its life-giving resources.

In the early days, Andre shipped tons of hurricane-felled timber from his native Guadeloupe to create his first bungalows. Ingeniously he equipped his construction projects with cisterns for fresh water.

Later he was the first to bring air conditioning to the island.

Food is a main attraction on St. Barts (Taylor)

By 1972 he had turned a fisherman’s hut on the beach just below his property into the Beach Club, the first seaside restaurant on St Barts.

Today with 80 restaurants on the island, of which 20 are located in the capital of Gustavia, food is one of the primary attractions. Mostly French, of course, but even Jimmy Buffet’s influence will get you a great cheeseburger. Air conditioning is everywhere and now, there are several flights an hour at the air field, which is the only straight and flat place on the island.

In the beginning, LeVillage had just one bungalow, but Charneau added at least two a year until it reached its present size of 25 rooms and 2 villas.

Each room is different and each has its own unique personality with plenty of views  (LeVillage)

Eventually clients such Craig Claiborne and Greta Garbo made their way to LeVillage. They too enjoyed the family atmosphere of the property as do the “friends of LeVillage” who met there years ago and now return each February.

Some of the showers feel like a rain forest  (Taylor)

By the time she was 18, Catherine was running the hotel, and the “family” style concept remains evident in everything LeVillage incorporates into their business philosophy.

“Day trippers see St Barts,” says Catherine who is the best public relations resource on the island, “but they don’t feel St Barts, because you have to absorb it to understand it.

Taxis are expensive. Realizing the best way to experience St Barts, the Charneaus have made special arrangements with Hertz for rental car services. All the car rental agencies are available at the airport, but Hertz will even bring a car to the port if you arrive by boat.

Arriving by plane is an experience all its own  (Taylor)

The biggest challenge for Catherine, her youngest brother Bertrand, their right hand assistant, Jean-Phillippe, and Bamboo, the resident mascot, in running LeVillage is to “retain its character, without losing its identity.”

That is also true for St Barts itself.

Bamboo is the hotel mascot  (Taylor)

LeVillage is the only 4-star hotel property on St Barts, which translates to value for the traveling dollar. Each room is different. Many feature kitchens which allow guests to cook should they choose not to dine out every evening. Rates are seasonal.

LeVillage has no restaurant, but continental breakfast is included. Eggs, bacon and pancakes are available for a small extra charge. In addition to the soothing Caribbean views, the breakfast room also features a piano and comfortable sofas.

Boule is a popular pastime  (Taylor)

Today, the swimming pool has replaced one of the original cisterns. There is an exercise room and massages are also available. If you like, you can even play a rousing game of boule, or bocce ball.

As Catherine proudly notes about the ample supply of books, “We have even re-introduced reading into the culture.”

By reputation, St Barts is called “chic”, “glamorous” and “glitzy.” Catherine Charneau has another word which is more appropriate. She calls it “quality.”

Some patios even have hammocks where you can nap or just relax  (Taylor)

You see the magic of LeVillage and St Barts is subtlety. It’s all there, but it’s up to you to seek it out. Columbus may have “found” St Barts, but Andre Charneau and his family “discovered” it. 

St Barts and LeVillage go hand in hand -- Elegance without pretense   (LeVillage)

LeVillage St Jean is one place on St Barts where you can truly Vive la difference!

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Charlotte’s Doug Eberhart conquers the Traveler’s Century Club

Night falls on Rio de Janeiro in Brazil -- One of 100 countries visited by Doug Eberhart  (wikipedia)

CHARLOTTE, NC, October 24, 2015 – Football season is in full swing and as every player and fan knows, 100 is the magic number. Be it 100 yards for a touchdown or 100 yards rushing or passing, 100 is the standard of excellence in America’s favorite sport.

Seeing the world up close is Doug's passion 

Perhaps that’s why former All-Ohio offensive center for Massillon Washington High School, Doug Eberhart, chose as his next landmark to travel to 100 countries. Today Eberhart measures his success in miles rather than yards but the number 100 remains the standard.

Recently Eberhart, a graduate of Princeton, “touched down” in Piran, Slovenia to become a full-fledged member of the Traveler’s Century Club; people who have visited 100 countries or more in their travels.

Like many “Centurians” Doug followed the wind and Slovenia just happened to be the country that captured the elusive trophy. As a rule Eberhart visits multiple countries when he can, not only for convenience but also as a cost and logistics factor.

Though Eberhart is an expert at finding a deal, he does not scrimp to necessarily seek out the lowest price because he knows all too well that that can be detrimental for a traveler even though it may keep his wallet a little bit fatter.

Antartica was a once in a lifetime experience, even for someone as well traveled as Doug Eberhart  (wikipedia)

Over his years of travel, Eberhart estimates he has spent between $200,000 and $250,000 to accomplish his feat, but considering the number of countries he has seen that number is relatively inexpensive. Furthermore, there is no price tag he can put on his memories or his experiences.

The most expensive trip Eberhart has ever taken was to Tahiti and Bora Bora which rang up a tab of about $8,500. Spending that kind of money is a rarity, however.

Transiting the Panama Canal  (wikipedia)

Most people do not think of football players as having an interest in seeing the world, but Doug was heavily influenced by his great uncle Eugene Jeffers who was an undercover agent for the CIA for many years. During school holidays, Eberhart and his twin brother, an All-Ohio high school quarterback, were enthralled by “Uncle Jeff's” stories of exotic places from the world’s most intriguing “hot spots.”

Iguazu Falls are one of those sights you have to experience to understand its magnitude  (wikipedia)

Eberhart also credits a French professor who brought the world alive, especially when teaching the Renaissance and the Reformation.

That laid the groundwork and Doug has been on a mission ever since. While at Princeton he went to Taipei with a friend as part of the International Student Body. During his visit he contacted a contagious disease know as “wanderlust” which is incurable. Once bitten the only thing that will stop someone is time and money.

Pha That Luang Vientiane in Laos is an example of world far different than our own  (wikipedia)

Though Doug did not initially set out to travel to 100 countries, somewhere between 2000 and 2003 he realized he wanted to set a goal of visiting at least 100 countries and territories. Eberhart is careful to qualify his dream because technically territories are not countries and determining prescisely what constitutes a country can be tricky at times.

For example, the Vatican is a country but it still feels like Rome anyway you look at it. And that’s just one tiny sample of countless other questionable destinations.

 “I always had an interest in the diversity of other countries and seeing the world through other people’s eyes,” says Doug. “I’m not interested in just checking off places for the sake of saying I have been there. I like to immerse myself in the culture as much as possible.”

Eberhart's favorite is Kenya, but he clarifies that he savors the diversity of all of Africa  (wikipedia)

The most obvious question Eberhart gets is which is his favorite country to which he says “Kenya” but actually he qualifies all of Africa in that assessment.

Paraguay is Eberhart;s least favorite destination, but someplace had to be last on the list  (wikipedia)

By contrast, his least favorite country is Paraguay which Eberhart found boring.

Like most world travelers, there are gaps in Doug’s personal itinerary: Israel, India, the Maldives, Nepal, Jordan, Poland, the Seychelles, Bhutan, Tibet and Myanmar to name a few.

Stockholm< Sweden ranks as one of Eberhart's top five cities in the world  (wikipedia)

Eberhart’s top five cities, in no particular order, are Sydney, Vancouver, Stockholm, Prague and Rio. Look closely and you will notice that somehow water makes its mark in the rankings.

Bali is another exotic favorite  (wikipedia)

One of the best things about his job as a sales rep for Merit Medical says Doug is that it has allowed him the freedom of time to pursue his dream.

And so the quest continues as Eberhart pursues some of those “gaps.” Don’t bet against him. He has already scored once and now he is working on his second 100 following his personal “turn of the century.”

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