The Gota Canal: Environmental Blue Ribbon
By Peabod
For most of us, the idea of taking a cruise conjures images of the Caribbean, the Mediterranean, Alaska or even the Panama Canal. But for many travelers, transiting the Panama Canal is merely a part of a checklist of things to experience. In the scheme of things, it becomes more of a conversation piece to extrude from a traveler’s dossier than something that instills romance or creates longings to pursue extended junkets to other parts of the world.
This is about a different kind of cruise however, and a very different type of canal. It is located in Sweden, and while it is regarded as a major attraction throughout the country, the Gota Canal, affectionately known to Swedes as “The Blue Ribbon,” remains relatively unknown to the rest of the world. This makes it an ideal subject for social gatherings, because the Gota Canal can be counted among an ever-dwindling list of discoveries that travelers often seek, but rarely encounter.
By Peabod
For most of us, the idea of taking a cruise conjures images of the Caribbean, the Mediterranean, Alaska or even the Panama Canal. But for many travelers, transiting the Panama Canal is merely a part of a checklist of things to experience. In the scheme of things, it becomes more of a conversation piece to extrude from a traveler’s dossier than something that instills romance or creates longings to pursue extended junkets to other parts of the world.
This is about a different kind of cruise however, and a very different type of canal. It is located in Sweden, and while it is regarded as a major attraction throughout the country, the Gota Canal, affectionately known to Swedes as “The Blue Ribbon,” remains relatively unknown to the rest of the world. This makes it an ideal subject for social gatherings, because the Gota Canal can be counted among an ever-dwindling list of discoveries that travelers often seek, but rarely encounter.
Like most canals, the purpose of the waterway was a shortcut, designed to expedite iron exports between Stockholm in the east of Sweden with Gothenburg in the west. It was also built to avoid exorbitant Danish customs charges for passage through the Oresund Sound.
The project had been proposed as early as 1526, but the idea was tabled for financial reasons and did not arise again until the 18th century. By 1750, it was finally decided that construction of the canal should be undertaken. Funding was not allocated during the following session of parliament however, and before parliament could meet again, Sweden was at war with Prussia. The canal was no longer a priority.
By May of 1810, with wars at an end and financing in hand, work began on the Gota Canal. For the next 22-years, 58,000 men worked 12-hour days, 6-days a week to complete the project. When it was finished in 1832, the canal was the quickest, most efficient way across Sweden. Today, it is probably the slowest.
For nearly 100-years the Gota Canal was a huge financial success, making the four day journey from one side of Sweden to the other by transporting everything from grain to pulpwood and timber, to coal and oil, and minerals and sundry goods.
By May of 1810, with wars at an end and financing in hand, work began on the Gota Canal. For the next 22-years, 58,000 men worked 12-hour days, 6-days a week to complete the project. When it was finished in 1832, the canal was the quickest, most efficient way across Sweden. Today, it is probably the slowest.
For nearly 100-years the Gota Canal was a huge financial success, making the four day journey from one side of Sweden to the other by transporting everything from grain to pulpwood and timber, to coal and oil, and minerals and sundry goods.
But times change. With advent of motorized vehicles and improved railway transportation, the usefulness of the Gota Canal rapidly declined. Happily, the death of commerce along the waterway, brought with it the birth of tourism and pleasure boating. When the government took over the operation of the canal in 1978, it became an environmental masterpiece overnight, and it has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since.
Ask any Swede to describe the single best feature of the country and they will all mention the environment. While they may express it a thousand different ways, the answer always returns to a reverence for the natural beauty of Sweden’s woodlands, lakes and archipelagos. Whatever your environmental passion, be it bird watching, wildlife, scenery, history, the idyllic serenity of the surrounding countryside or any combination of those things, the Gota Canal has become the ideal place to observe them all.
Today the canal can be sailed aboard three historic ships that ply its waters throughout the summer. Depending upon the ship you choose, capacity ranges from 28 cabins to 31, each with enough space to accommodate 60 passengers. The flagship of the mini-fleet is the Juno, which went into service in 1874. It took nearly four decades for the Wilhelm Tham to join her in 1912, followed by the Diana, which was built in 1931. Juno and Wilhelm Tham do four-day excursions, while the Diana makes six-day outings. Diana also does several seven-day sailings that cater to golfers.
Today the canal can be sailed aboard three historic ships that ply its waters throughout the summer. Depending upon the ship you choose, capacity ranges from 28 cabins to 31, each with enough space to accommodate 60 passengers. The flagship of the mini-fleet is the Juno, which went into service in 1874. It took nearly four decades for the Wilhelm Tham to join her in 1912, followed by the Diana, which was built in 1931. Juno and Wilhelm Tham do four-day excursions, while the Diana makes six-day outings. Diana also does several seven-day sailings that cater to golfers.
Each ship features cabins on three decks. As you might expect, accommodations are necessarily small. Cabins do include wash basins with hot and cold water, but showers are found only on the main and bridge decks. There are bathrooms on each deck, but no private facilities in the rooms. Still, the polished brass, varnished doors and cozy surroundings create an intimate, romantic ambience throughout, and the postage-stamp living arrangements quickly yield to a picturesque travel experience that will not soon be forgotten.
The canal is a friendly place. All along the route there are walkers and bikers who carry on conversations with passengers as the ships glide along their tranquil course. In many places, people actually walk faster than the ship, and many “landlubbers” take up the challenge of racing the ship as a source of exercise on the way to the next lock.
The canal is a friendly place. All along the route there are walkers and bikers who carry on conversations with passengers as the ships glide along their tranquil course. In many places, people actually walk faster than the ship, and many “landlubbers” take up the challenge of racing the ship as a source of exercise on the way to the next lock.
The concept for the Gota (pronounced YER-ta by Swedes) Canal was simple, to connect two major lakes, Vanern and Vattern, plus the western archipelago of the Baltic Sea from Stockholm to Mem, with a series of manmade canals that link the two most important cities of the country. The result, a total of 58 locks and 65 bridges along an intricate, serpentine system of waterways that crest some 300-feet above sea level.
Locks are always gathering spots. They are a good place for passengers to get off the ship to observe the process of raising or lowering the tiny vessels from one level to another. It is always and “event” whenever a ship arrives at a lock. Passengers mingle with locals who have stopped along the towpath for a picnic or merely want to pause to offer moral support. Even though Swedes are sun worshippers by nature, it is not uncommon for a ship’s passage through a lock to briefly disrupt someone’s tanning ritual, but that’s all part of the genteel ambience of the canal.
At Berg, about halfway along the canal, the ships navigate 15-locks along a two-mile stretch that features a remarkable 59-foot change in the elevation of the water levels. The most elaborate portion of this section is a series of nine locks which basically form a huge aqua-escalator for the boats to make methodical maneuvers up or down the picturesque marine staircase before continuing their journey. As one might expect, this segment of the canal is particularly popular for passengers and observers alike.
Locks are always gathering spots. They are a good place for passengers to get off the ship to observe the process of raising or lowering the tiny vessels from one level to another. It is always and “event” whenever a ship arrives at a lock. Passengers mingle with locals who have stopped along the towpath for a picnic or merely want to pause to offer moral support. Even though Swedes are sun worshippers by nature, it is not uncommon for a ship’s passage through a lock to briefly disrupt someone’s tanning ritual, but that’s all part of the genteel ambience of the canal.
At Berg, about halfway along the canal, the ships navigate 15-locks along a two-mile stretch that features a remarkable 59-foot change in the elevation of the water levels. The most elaborate portion of this section is a series of nine locks which basically form a huge aqua-escalator for the boats to make methodical maneuvers up or down the picturesque marine staircase before continuing their journey. As one might expect, this segment of the canal is particularly popular for passengers and observers alike.
The width of the canal is only about 80-feet at its widest points along the water’s surface, with a depth of about 12-feet. Maximum speed for the ships is 5-knots. The meandering route travels past medieval castles, ancient fortresses, Sweden’s oldest spa, museums and charming villages that are all nestled among the glorious natural settings so beloved by the citizens of the country.
While aboard the ship, you can bask in the morning sunshine as the day unfolds just beyond the bow of the ship, and later, revel in the stunning richness of fading light that only a Scandinavian summer can create. The angle of the northern sun has a way of enhancing colors, giving them a vibrancy that must be witnessed at twilight to be appreciated, for they are impossible to describe.
While aboard the ship, you can bask in the morning sunshine as the day unfolds just beyond the bow of the ship, and later, revel in the stunning richness of fading light that only a Scandinavian summer can create. The angle of the northern sun has a way of enhancing colors, giving them a vibrancy that must be witnessed at twilight to be appreciated, for they are impossible to describe.
In short, the Gota Canal is an environmentalist’s paradise, and it may just be one of the best kept tourism secrets in the world. Here you can float gracefully across a mirror of water and observe the peaceful rolling countryside of Sweden surrounded by forests and lakes, and at the same time, experience sheep, deer, waterfowl, haystacks, castles and those traditional red and white farmhouses all thriving in the warmth of the glorious Scandinavian sunshine.
If your itinerary allows a choice, the preferred direction is to travel from Gothenburg to Stockholm rather than from east to west. This offers the benefit of concluding your journey in one the most charming large cities in the world. Sweden’s capital is a cosmopolitan wonderland that floats upon 14-islands.
There are some who would say that the slow pace of a four-day excursion on the Gota Canal is boring. Others might have difficulty adapting to the Lilliputian size of the cabins. But for a world-weary traveler, the calm and serenity of gracefully sailing through seemingly untouched scenery along an ever-changing ribbon of water with no perceptible deadline is alluring. As one passenger said, “This is one very impressive ditch.”
He didn’t know how right he was.
There are some who would say that the slow pace of a four-day excursion on the Gota Canal is boring. Others might have difficulty adapting to the Lilliputian size of the cabins. But for a world-weary traveler, the calm and serenity of gracefully sailing through seemingly untouched scenery along an ever-changing ribbon of water with no perceptible deadline is alluring. As one passenger said, “This is one very impressive ditch.”
He didn’t know how right he was.
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