Chateau de Canisy: A Thousand Years of Continuous History By Peabod
According to Wikipedia, Windsor Castle is the oldest inhabited castle in continuous occupation in the world, dating back to the days of William the Conqueror. There is, however, another chateau in Normandy, France which also traces historical ties to William, who was more commonly known as “the Bastard” before he became a “Conqueror.” It is called the Chateau de Canisy and, while Windsor is larger, Canisy is, in fact, older than Windsor, has been continuously occupied longer than Windsor and, most uniquely, boasts an unbroken history of occupation by the same family; a fact that even Windsor cannot claim.
In the 11th century the original structure at Canisy was little more than a fortress, the property of the Sire de Carbonnel, a friend of the Duke of Normandy, who fought beside William at the Battle of Hastings in 1066. Today, the Castle of Canisy is a majestic residence that has been continuously owned and occupied by the ancestors of the Sire de Carbonnel for nearly 1,000 years.
On D-Day in 1944, in the tiny village of Canisy in Normandy, France, the Chateau de Canisy endured the most massive military operation in history. The invasion forever changed the world, yet the castle remained, just as it was when William the Conqueror altered history at another milestone event with his victory at the Battle of Hastings in the year 1066.
For nearly ten centuries, the Chateau de Canisy has survived the timeline of the 2nd Millennium as the Middle Ages, Crusades, Hundred Years War, plague, the Renaissance, the Protestant Reformation, the French Revolution, the Impressionist art movement and two world wars were participants in a chronicle that was a colorful, yet frequently turbulent, cyclorama of the past. Not only did the Chateau de Canisy outlast them all, but it also predates Windsor.
Chateau de Canisy stands today as an uninterrupted link to ten centuries of history. While other structures may be larger, older or better known, the uniquely remarkable aspect of Canisy is that it has an unbroken history within the same family through every generation since the days of the Norman Conquest. And the best part is that today, the Chateau de Canisy is a place that welcomes guests who wish to experience the legacy of this private castle that is a window on the past, as well as a doorway to the future.
Upon the death of his father, the current owner, Count Denis de Kergorlay, inherited Canisy in the late 70s. At first, the count had no compelling allegiance to his acquisition, and offered the estate to his younger brother. When the brother accepted the bequeathment with the idea of converting the site into a monastery, Count de Kergorlay reconsidered and reclaimed his chateau and its grounds.
Over time, after countless conversations with his Aunt Brigitte, who lived most of her life at Canisy, de Kergorlay began to recognize that his castle had a captivating charm that was bewitching to anyone who experienced its surroundings. Later, through the inspiration and innovation of the count’s wife, Marie Christine, a concept evolved to make the chateau accessible to the public as a way of preserving its spirit by keeping it fresh and alive in the 21st century. Today, the Chateau de Canisy is a tradition that continues to thrive after ten centuries of continuous ownership.
Denis de Kergorlay emphatically maintains that his chateau is not a hotel, and will never be. It is only within recent years that telephones have been installed in the rooms. There is no front desk. There are no elevators. No uniformed bellhops or waiters. No televisions. Chateau de Canisy is a private residence that can be reserved for overnight stays of two nights or more, special events and small meetings when the Kergorlays are not personally using it.
Canisy is indeed a rarity, offering the opportunity to step back in time to experience the aristocratic lifestyle as it was in centuries past. The most beguiling aspect of the chateau is the way in which visitors respond to its enticing sensations which make them feel as if they have somehow always been a part of it; as though they belong; as if it is their own.
Two theories exist regarding the origin of the castle. The first is that the land was bestowed upon the Sire de Carbonnel by William the Conqueror as a gift for his participation in the Battle of Hastings in 1066. The second, and more likely account, is that Carbonnel already had a fortress at Canisy, and merely fought alongside his close friend, the Duke of Normandy, during the Norman Conquest, as well as the first Crusade a few decades later. In either case, the genesis of the story begins in the second half of the 11th century and continues uninterrupted into the 21st.
Over the centuries, Canisy has undergone numerous incarnations resulting from changes in lifestyles, architectural evolution, disasters from fire, war and weather and, of course, the personal tastes of its proprietors at any given point in history. Today, only the north tower and the connecting retaining wall remain intact from the Middle Ages, but there are sufficient other remnants that link the past to the present.
Brigitte de Kergorlay was in her early 20s in 1940 when she observed German soldiers from an upstairs window of Canisy as they approached across the huge gravel courtyard leading to the residence. In mere minutes the Germans had confiscated the property, forcing the family to occupy the library and a few small rooms at the rear of the castle in the area near the north tower. Though Brigitte’s father spoke fluent German, he refused to converse with the enemy during their four year occupation, leaving Brigitte to serve as the interpreter between her family and the invading soldiers. For the young French woman it was a turbulent period that would later strengthen her resolve to preserve the family dwelling and to reinforce her love for Canisy with a devotion that would remain indelibly etched upon her soul for the rest of her life.
Longevity alone has allowed the Chateau de Canisy to be a participant in the pageant of events that has occurred over the past thousand years, but the aristocratic lineage of the family has also added to the vignettes of history that became woven into that tapestry of time. Marriages among female ancestors changed the family name twice, from Carbonnel to Faudoas to Kergorlay.
Few written documents about the area and the chateau exist from the Middle Ages until the Renaissance, leaving only sketchy records of the Carbonnels who dominated the first 700 years of Canisy’s heritage. There is little doubt that in-depth research into the history of the region will one day reveal even greater ties to the past that will further enhance the story of Canisy. A story that is already rich in tradition.
The Kergorlay era of the Canisy legacy begins with the marriage of Justine de Faudoas to Louis-Gabriel de Kergorlay who was an officer in Louis XVI’s army, as were most young aristocrats in France at the time. As a result, the Kergorlay wedding was not only attended by the king himself, but also by Marie Antoinette, along with other notable figures of the day.
But storm clouds of dissent were gathering. It was a dangerous time for French nobility as the winds of political unrest were becoming increasingly intense. Fearing for the safety of the new bride and groom, the family sent their young newlyweds to Italy. Soon after, the Revolution spread throughout Paris and across the country. It would be fourteen long years before the Kergorlays could return to their chateau at Canisy.
During the earliest days of the Revolution, three members of the family remained at the chateau. Among them was Eleonore de Faudoas who corresponded regularly with her close friend, Charlotte Corday who was living in nearby Caen. Letters between the two women reflect Corday’s growing despair over the strife that was taking place in Paris.
In an act of desperation, Corday traveled to Paris and almost overnight became a national celebrity for assassinating the revolutionary leader, Jean-Paul Marat, with a butter knife as he soaked in a medicinal bath. Corday was captured before she could flee from the building, and in a matter of days met her death beneath the blade of the dreaded guillotine.
Within a year, the three Faudoas still in residence at Canisy were arrested and taken to Paris where they, too, were guillotined because of Eleonore’s prior association with Charlotte Corday. Strangely enough, the Faudoas beheadings took place only days before the fall of Robespierre.
Canisy was left to survive in the hands of its caretaker. Fortunately, when officials arrived one day to confiscate the property for the state, the wily caretaker was savvy enough about French law to know that the land still legally belonged to the Kergorlays. With sound reasoning and uncommon boldness, the caretaker cleverly befriended the authorities by intoxicating them on calvados, a local libation made of apples, then pushing them back into their coach and returning them to Saint Lo five miles away. Through guile and diplomacy, a loyal employee had preserved the ownership of the castle for the Kergorlays, and for the past 250 years, Canisy’s bloodlines to the 11th century have remained intact.
In the 1830s, another Kergorlay, also named Louis, journeyed to Paris to serve as best man in the wedding of his cousin, Alexis de Toqueville. Correspondence indicates frequent verbal sparring and spirited debate among the two kinsmen, and it is clear from their letters that Toqueville relied heavily upon Kergorlay’s opinions while gathering ideas for his two volume philosophical discourse entitled Democracy in America. Today, Toqueville’s works are still studied, analyzed and discussed in many major universities as the definitive discourse on the American democratic system.
Perhaps the greatest contemporary link between the past and modern times at Canisy is the influence of Brigitte de Kergorlay. Well before the D-Day invasion and the Battle of Normandy, the Germans had already evicted the family from their chateau, but long after the liberation, with American forces camping in tents on the massive expanse of lawn at the rear of the castle, Brigitte returned to her beloved home.
Though structurally intact, the Chateau de Canisy had been violated internally by the rapid retreat of the German army. Most of the family heirlooms and artwork were left undamaged due to the Germans belief that they would ultimately prevail in the conflict, thereby making the chateau and its contents a valued acquisition among the spoils of war. But the frenzy of those final desperate hours of departure, combined with the accumulation of rubble and dirt from battles in the area, left the interior of Canisy in disarray. Though dismayed by what she discovered, Brigitte knew in her heart that, over time, a massive clean-up campaign would eventually restore her home to its previous splendor.
Shortly after Brigitte’s return to Canisy, the information officer of the American forces in the area learned that the young French women would soon be celebrating her birthday. When her special day arrived, the officer appeared at the door to invite Brigitte to a party featuring a huge one square meter birthday cake and a place of honor as the personal guest of General Omar Bradley. An event that was duly noted by the famed war correspondent Ernie Pyle.
Each time she recounted the tale, Brigitte would exclaim with pure joy on her face that “It was the greatest day of my life.”
For Brigitte it was a magical time to experience the liberation of her country by celebrating her birthday with an American general and his troops after years of despair and confinement at the hands of German invaders. It is one of those little known, yet significant vignettes of life that somehow define the magic of Canisy as an eyewitness to events that have become its legacy over the course of nearly one thousand years.
Through Brigitte’s lifelong devotion to Canisy, Denis de Kergorlay soon realized the value of his priceless inheritance. Finally, after months of introspection, the count arrived at the concept of opening his chateau to the public in an effort to prove that a historical monument to the past can also play an active and vital role in the present with an eye toward the future.
“I wanted to prove that a castle such as Canisy can make a statement in the 21st century,” claims de Kergorlay. “Canisy represents different times, different eras, but it still exists today. It is still alive. It has something to contribute to the modern world.”
The concept of the Chateau de Canisy is an ambitious undertaking. In the purest sense, de Kergorlay’s desire is to make his residence a haven for international exchange. A place that will be a crossroads for discussion, debate and the sharing of global ideas within an atmosphere where history lives and continues to thrive within its walls.
From Denis de Kergorlay’s perspective, Canisy requires constant attention and massive renovation as an on-going consequence of ownership. That being the case, he has customized his chateau in a manner that showcases its ties with the past by making it a living museum that can be experienced by others. With this basic concept in mind, the count has added modern amenities that allow the castle to function within a 21st century world without detracting from the ambiance of the past and the historic focal point of the property. He has preserved the essence of Canisy without destroying its integrity, yet he has managed to adapt his chateau in a way that can be useful on a practical level in a contemporary world.
At the rear of the castle, in the section of the residence where the family was once sequestered throughout the war, a meeting and conference facility have been added, complete with a small theater. There are billiard tables and a game room, and even a small disco located directly beneath the original north tower of the Sire de Carbonnel. The disco is complete with colored lights, strobes and a state-of-the-art sound system.
Each bedroom and bath is unique, designed to reflect a specific period in French history, but achieved with decorative license that provides modern amenities and conveniences. The chateau can comfortably accommodate 35 guests, but with creative maneuvering, it can be configured to handle up to 40.
Since the village of Canisy is off-the-beaten path, dinners at the castle are recommended, and they are elegant occasions. The dining room is the real-life embodiment of every elaborate banquet hall from every movie that has ever been made about French aristocracy. The elongated oak table in the center of the room will easily seat 20 people for dinner, but when necessary, tables can be added to serve up to 75.
A welcoming fire almost always pops and crackles at one end of the room, while visitors enjoy four course meals surrounded by antiques and paintings of the Kergorlay ancestry. And no chateau could ever live up to its heritage without red and white wine being poured throughout the meal. Dinners are preceded by champagne, cocktails and hors d’oeuvres in the drawing room and the music room. When the dessert course is finished, guests once again retire to the salon for coffee and after dinner drinks.
Breakfast is included as part of the reservation, and if guests stay long enough, they can even place laundry at the base of the bed in the morning and have it back all cleaned and folded by the end of the day.
Chateau de Canisy is centrally located for easy access to sightseeing throughout Normandy. Among the most popular outings are the D-Day landing beaches and the American Cemetery at Omaha Beach, Bayeux for its famous tapestry and shopping, Caen and its Memorial to Peace, Honfleur, the Abby of Mont St. Michel, the medieval village of Rouen and antique hunting just to mention a few.
The biggest mistake that almost everyone makes when they spend time at Canisy is not allowing enough time at the chateau itself. At first, the Chateau de Canisy appears as a massive stone structure that proudly dominates the pastoral setting of the Normandy countryside. In truth, it has a welcoming ambiance that is not at all intimidating or overwhelming. From the moment you walk through the door, you feel at home within a hospitable atmosphere that permeates its grandiose size. You won’t be disappointed, for the chateau will capture your heart, and a single night will only whet your appetite for more.
Normandy is a region of rural landscapes and rolling farmland, yet for the past thousand years, it has frequently been a site of conflict and unrest. Twice Normandy has been a place that has altered the course of history. Yet today it beckons with a serenity that seems far removed from the turbulence that has passed there before.
Chateau de Canisy has been more than a backdrop in Normandy’s ever-changing pageant of antiquity. It has had a active role that is larger than a mere setting. For it has been vigorously involved with its own special place in the history of the last ten centuries. A legacy that endures, and constantly unfolds, through the uniqueness of Canisy's continuous ancestral links to the past.
IF YOU GO TO NORMANDY:
GETTING THERE:
Normandy is located west and northwest of Paris. Despite its turbulent history, it is one of the most tranquil regions of France, filled with peaceful rivers, rolling farmland, elegant chateaux and charming villages. Dairy products are so abundant that locals call them “white gold,” providing about 50% of the milk, butter, cream and cheese of the country. Normandy is famous for its cheese, of which, Camembert is the most popular. Oddly enough, Normandy is the only area of France that does not produce wine. The area is also rich in history, especially the past 1,000 years, from the 10th century to the present. It is an easy place from which to establish one or two bases for days trips.
Access to the region from Charles de Gaulle International Airport or from Paris takes approximately 3 to 3 ½ hours by car to reach a central location for exploration. Like all of France, Normandy is serviced by high speed TGVs and regional trains operated by SNCF, the French National Rail Network. Many commuters live in Normandy and work in Paris, so services and schedules are excellent to major cities in the area. Since the region is large and rural, traveling by rail is a great way to get to a primary destination, but a rental car is suggested as the best way to tour the countryside.
For rail information:
http://www.sncf.com/ ---
http://www.raileurope.com/ --- 1 877 456 RAIL
Highways in France are excellent, and having your own transportation allows the freedom to explore the “undiscovered” charms of Normandy. The major international car rental companies have offices at de Gaulle Airport, Paris and in most of the larger cities in the region. Note that sometimes agencies, especially local rental businesses, are closed on Sundays and on Saturday afternoons so it is wise to check in advance. Also, the autoroutes (interstate highways) charge tolls which vary in price. Toll fares on the A14 are higher than the A13, and range between 6 and 8 euros per 100 kilometers. Gas is expensive. Expect to pay about the equivalent of $1 to $1.25 per liter, or roughly $4 to $4.50 a gallon. One way to save a little money on the cost of fuel is to rent a diesel.
For autoroute information:
http://www.autoroutes.fr/
LANDING BEACHES:
One of the highlights of a visit to Normandy is touring the landing beaches and sites where the D-Day invasion took place in June of 1944. There are numerous stops along the route, and it seems that each village and town you pass has some sort of museum or memorial. Here are five of the most popular places to see not including he various beaches themselves. World War II buffs and veterans will find plenty more to whet their appetite.
ARROMANCHES:
Today Arromanches is a resort community, but in 1944 it was one of two locations where the allies established prefabricated ports which were code-named Mulberry Harbors. The port at Omaha Beach was completely destroyed by a storm just two weeks after D-Day, but portions of Port Winston at Arromanches can still be seen. The best view of the harbor is from a hillside east of town.
LONGUES SUR MER:
About 6 kilometers west of Arromanches sit the huge 152mm artillery pieces and concrete emplacements of the German defensive. They were designed to hit targets some 20km away which included Omaha Beach to the west and Gold Beach to the east. The spire of the Bayeux Cathedral 8km inland can be seen on clear days.
NORMANDY AMERICAN CEMETERY:
This is an absolute must. Someone once wrote that “to be here is to be in the presence of something done right.” There are 9,386 white crosses or Stars of David sitting on a hill overlooking Omaha Beach. There cemetery features a memorial, the 22-foot bronze statue which pays tribute to the young soldiers who died in battle, a garden memorial to honor the missing, a reflecting pool, a chapel and an overlook that is located at the spot where the invading forces were finally able to break through the German defense. The memorial is inspirational in its simplicity, and the carillon is magnificent when it plays.
The cemetery is 17km northwest of Bayeux.
The cemetery is open from 8 am to 5 pm in winter months and from 9 am to 6 pm from mid-April to mid-October. The visitors center on the premises can help visitors locate a specific marker.
POINTE DU HOC RANGER MEMORIAL:
Located 14km to the east of Utah Beach and 12k west of Omaha Beach, Pointe du Hoc is another location where Germans had a battery of artillery to ward off invasion. It sits on a cliff that rises 100 feet above the English Channel. Here 225 Army Rangers scaled awesome vertical walls with orders to eliminate the German opposition, and pave the way for the American invading forces at Utah and Omaha Beaches. Over half of the Rangers were killed or wounded in the attack. The grounds are still pockmarked with craters from the bombs. Visitors can walk among and inside the German fortifications.
Hours are the same as the Normandy American Cemetery. There is no admission charge at any of the above sites.
CAEN MEMORIAL: A MUSEUM FOR PEACE:
The city of Caen was virtually leveled during the Battle of Normandy. Today there is little to see except for several excellent museums, two historic abbeys and the 11th century fortress built by William the Conqueror. One museum that should not be overlooked however, is the Memorial of Caen, far exceeds the D-Day landings, the Battle of Normandy and the liberation of Europe. Opened in 1988, it was built as on-going, working venue that serves as a reminder of the horrors of war while emphasizing the pursuit of peace. There are comprehensive exhibits and displays dealing with the conflicts of the 20th century and the Battle of Normandy, including three films. The split screen presentation about D-Day is particularly meaningful by synchronizing the invasion from the perspectives of the Allies and the Germans at the same time. But this is only the beginning. The memorial is constantly evolving as history writes itself. There is a gallery to honor winners of the Nobel Peace Prize and an International Park for the liberation of Europe intended to pay tribute to the soldiers who died in the pursuit of freedom. In addition the museum provides educational opportunities for school children, historical resources and archives and even conducts guided mini-van tours to the landing beaches.
The Caen Memorial is 3km northwest of the tourist office on esplanade Dwight Eisenhower. Admission is 11 euros (students 10 euros and WWII veterans free) includes the three films. Hours are 9 am to 7 pm daily (6 pm in winter). Closing time is 8 pm in July and August. For information:
http://www.memorial.fr/ --- +32 2 31 06 06 44 --- Reservations for tours of the landing beaches are necessary and can be made Monday through Friday --- e-mail for reservations:
resa@memorial-caen.fr
OTHER ATTRACTIONS:
For travelers Normandy has an abundance of sights, museums, abbeys and cathedrals to compliment its peaceful countryside settings. Here are a few suggestions, but they are not intended to be a definitive list.
MONT ST-MICHEL:
The breathtaking abbey was begun in the 8th century when the Archangel Michael appeared to the Bishop of Avranches and told him to build a chapel at the summit of the rock. A hodge-podge of architectural styles, the abbey is especially impressive when it becomes an island at high tides. Today, a causeway keeps visitors from getting stranded. Open daily from 9:30 am to noon and 1 pm to 6:30 pm daily, Easter through June; from 9 am to noon and 2 pm to 5:45 pm Monday through Saturday the rest of the year. Adult tickets are 9 euros, ages 18 – 25 and students are 4 euros and children are free. The abbey can be toured without a guide, but a guided tour is included in the price of the ticket.
For information:
http://www.le-mont-st-michel.org/ --- +32 2 33 60 14 30
BAYEUX TAPESTRY:
The Centre Guillaume le-Conquerant (William the Conqueror Center) in Bayeux is the location of the extraordinary embroidery known as the Bayeux Tapestry. The 11th center masterpiece is virtually intact and details the story of the Battle of Hastings in 1066. The 58 scenes are roughly 3 feet high and over 200 feet long providing invaluable insights into life as it was lived in medieval times. A multipass ticket which is good for the Musee de la Tapisserie de Bayeux, as well as three other museums in Bayeux, can be bought for 9 euros adult and 3 euros students. Open daily, except Christmas and New Years, from 9 am to 12:30 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm mid-September to April. The rest of the year it is open without a midday break from 9 am to 7 pm.
For information: +33 2 31 51 25 50
MUSEE DES BEAUX-ARTS (ROUEN):
One of the best regional museums in France located in the town where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. The fine arts museum was renovated in 1994 and features paintings from the 15th to the 20th centuries, including all the major movements in European art. Admission is 4 euros for adults, 3 euros for students. It is open daily, except Tuesday, between 10 am and 6 pm.
For information: +33 2 35 71 28 40
GIVERNY (NEAR VERNON):
Claude Monet’s house, studios and gardens for 40 years. Visit the pond with its now famous lilies and see what inspired the great Impressionist painter. Monet was a world class horticulturist and his gardens will astound you. It’s a little tricky to find once you get to Vernon, but persevere because it is well worth the effort. Open 10 am to 6 pm, except Mondays from April through October. Tickets for the house and gardens are 6 euros (students are 5 euros and children 4 euros)
For information: +33 2 32 51 28 21
HONFLEUR:
A charming seaport with its heyday in the 17th and 18th centuries. Samuel de Champlain sailed from here to found Quebec City and La Salle followed about 80 years later to reach the mouth of the Mississippi and what is now Louisiana. The area inspired the Impressionists because of its light, and the old harbor is a great place to eat, have a drink and let the world pass by.
For information:
http://www.ville-honfleur.fr/ --- +33 2 31 89 23 30
ACCOMMODATIONS:
CHATEAU DE CANISY (CANISY):
Chateau de Canisy just may be the biggest bed and breakfast in the world. The property has remained in the same family since the 11th century. Today it is owned by Count Denis de Kergorlay, and it is one of the best kept secrets in all of France. Chateau de Canisy is not a hotel. It is a private residence which Count de Kergorlay has lovingly renovated so that he may welcome guests to share the elegance and surroundings of a French chateau. The property is available to individuals, groups or for small corporate meetings. There are 20 large rooms, each is appointed differently with antique furnishings. The chateau is centrally located to most of the important sights in Normandy in the tiny village of Canisy which is 8 km southwest of St. Lo. Room prices vary according to group size, activities and season but a typical double room with breakfast begins at 230 euros. A suite will cost about 350 euros. The property has its own chef who prepares meals featuring typical Normandy cuisine. Lunch is available for 50 euros, while dinners are served in the grand dining room for a fixed price starting at 80 euros including drinks, wine and champagne.
For information:
http://www.canisy.com/ --- e-mail:
info@Canisy.com --- +33 1 44 05 09 81
HOTEL-RESTAURANT LION D’OR (BAYEUX):
A three-star hotel in an old coaching inn and convenient to the Bayeux Tapestry. Rooms are comfortable and quiet. The restaurant, which has been operating since 1640, is perhaps the best in town. Rooms range from 55 euros to 80 euros. +33 2 31 92 06 90
Tourist Office: (pont St-Jean) e-mail:
bayeux-tourisme@mail.cpod.fr --- +33 2 31 51 28
HOTEL DES CARMES (ROUEN):
A romantic property on a peaceful square. Rooms are well appointed with a moderate price range of 40 euros to 50 euros. 33 place des Carmes.
E-mail:
h.des.carmes@mcom.mcom.fr --- +33 2 35 71 92 31
LA COURONNE (ROUEN):
Some say it is the oldest restaurant in France. The specialty is pressed duck. Open every day. Reservations are suggested. All major credit cards accepted. 31 Pl. due Vieux-Marche. +33 2 35 71 40 90
Tourist Office: (25 place de la Cathedrale) e-mail:
otrouen@mcom.fr --- +33 2 32 08 32 40
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